Jacó + Playa Hermosa

The introductory week of classes went well! Three different birthdays throughout the week to celebrate in San José. Classes on - Human Development and Society, Current Environmental Issues in Latin America, Human Development froma Gender Perspective, Sustainable and Eco Tourism, Latin America through Film (we get an entire independent movie theater for about seven students to watch Latin American films), and Spanish Language. All the professors have impressive and well-respected backgrounds and really seem to know their fields and all have scheduled out-of-the-classroom days where we will be able to see the practical application of the studies. What makes the classes even better is the interest and involvement from the students. Nearly all of us are studying International Studies, Economics, and Environmental Sciences or Studies in varying combinations and concentration at each of our home universities. Often classroom discussions extend well beyond the university and are common on bus rides, lunch tables, the beach, etc. as we share experiences, ideas, news, and visions. Conversations go from security in the Pakistan to urban farming to water rights and so on to the endless challenges facing our generation and those to come. While views and opinions may differ on certain issues, everyone gets along great and for our first full weekend (classes run Mon. through Thurs. with a 3 day weekend each week) we decided to travel as a group to the Central Pacific Coast.

Before departing, we all had to go to the Ministry of Tourism office in San José to be fingerprinted as part of the visa process. The task was easy and quick enough (the woman who conducted mine told me I have – “nice Gringo eyes”). In general, Ticos (Costa Ricans) are pretty mixed – a lot of the initial Spanish colonial influence, some Afro, some Indigenous (even when the Conquistadors arrived there weren’t nearly as many Indigenous as Nicaragua, Guatemala, etc.), and more recently a bunch of European. So a lot of darker features (hair, skin, eyes, etc.), but esp. for men – wearing shorts or sandals in the city are what really makes you stand out. Pants and closed toed shoes are not really worn by Ticos except at the beach.

After the fingerprinting we made our way to the bus (approx. $4 each way) to the beach town of Jacó, about an hour drive by car, but at least 1.5-2 by bus. Throughout the week, we had heard nothing but bad about the tourist overrun, oft sewage contaminated water (esp. during the rainy season), and thievery, so expectations were relatively low. The beach is not the nices, but has good surfing waves. There is also a somewhat busy nightlife. Really no reason to take a family to Jacó. There are however lots of old white men and only after leaving did I learn one of the town’s main exports is prostitution, a legal service in Costa Rica – does not mean it is any more respectable. We at the hostel/house (the group was split between two hostels ~ $10 per night) in Jacó around four to be greeted by the owner, a Hungarian who has lived in the town surfing, running the hostel, and essentially relaxing (now, he says, he’s going through “reverse burnout” and needs to actually do something to feel some sort of accomplishment. However, he’s taking it day by day, e.g “today I am going to do laundry, then go to the beach”) for the past four years. As we arrived, he told us he was about to go with some friends to an overlook to watch the sunset and invited us to join.

 We packed into a couple SUV taxis, with the house (street) dog, Puzzle McNuggs, and drove out of the town and headed up into the hills/little mountains overlooking the beach/town. We went about 2km up the steep dusty dirt road to get to the overlook. During the hotel/development boom, a restaurant up in the mountains above the town was under construction. Funds ran out and developers were forced to abandon the project, leaving behind two floors of stair-cased balconies. With an absolutely gorgeous view on the expansive balcony
and surrounded by lush forest with the hum of insects, white-faced capuchins climbing over head, and bats flying low right past us, we sat and watched the sun set over the Pacific.

After sitting and hanging around there for a while, we headed down the slopes – Puzzle McNuggs leading the way in the dark – and found a little local restaurant for dinner. I ordered the sopa de mariscos and it was just that - a big bowl of the freshest fish and seafood caught locally. After a delicious dinner we headed back into town and hung out at the hostel for the night – there were a bunch of Costa Ricans, Americans, and Europeans staying there as well.

For the next two days, we lounged on the black volcanic sands (so hot you feel as if you’ve burned the soles of your feet) under palm trees. Unlike, Jacó, Playa Hermosa is a beautiful beach and a nice, comparably less developed beach town only 5km from our hostel. The beaches get rocked throughout the day by enormous waves, esp. at 

high tide, making it a favorite for surfers from around the world, but people are always disappearing in the area as the undercurrent is so powerful. Great fun to play in as long as you’re aware you should not go any deeper than waist or so high. Saturday night was more relaxing by the pool at the hostel and back to the Playa Hermosa for a full day on the beach before heading back to San José Sunday night. I arrived home just in time to catch the last play of the Super Bowl – well worth missing the game to spend a wonderful day at Playa Hermosa.